The Mother of All Mug Sweaters

Tangled Cables Mug Sweater

Of all the mug sweaters I’ve made, this one was designed with the most love. It’s for my mother.

Tangled Cables Mug Sweater

Download printable PDF

Size: Fits a mug 3 ¼” (8.5 cm) in diameter, 3 ¾-4 ½” (10-12 cm) tall

Materials: Worsted-weight yarn, size 5 double-pointed needles, button

Gauge: This project isn’t large enough to make it worth your while to make a swatch. Just measure it against your mug as you go. (If you switch it to a circular needle, you can try it on.)

Abbreviations: C4F = Slip two stitches purlwise onto cable needle and hold in front of work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the left-hand needle, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4B = Slip two stitches purlwise onto cable needle and hold behind work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the left-hand needle, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

CO 1 st, using a slip knot.

RS: K1, p1, k1 in same st. (3 sts)

Pass stitches to the other end of the needle and knit on the RS again (as for an i-cord): Kfb each stitch. (6 sts)

Repeat last row. (12 sts)

Divide the 12 sts onto 3 dp needles.

Round 1: *Kfb, k1, repeat from*

Round 2 (and all even rounds): Knit.

Round 3: Repeat round 1

Round 5: *Kfb, k2, repeat from* (36 sts)

Round 7: *Kfb, k3, repeat from* (45 sts)

Round 9: *Kfb, k4, repeat from* (54 sts)

Round 10: Knit.

You should now have a flat circle the same size as the base of your mug. If you need to make it a bit larger, knit additional increase rounds according to the same pattern.

Purl one round.

Round 1 (of sides):  *K1, kfb, k1, p1, pfb, p1, repeat from * to end (72 sts).

Round 2: *K4, p4, repeat from * to end.

Round 3: *C4B, p4, repeat from * to end.

Round 4: *K4, p4, repeat from *until two stitches remain (end p2). Sl remaining sts onto left-hand needle.

Next round: P2, *k4, p4, repeat from *, ending p2.

Now turn the work inside out and knit on the WS. From now on, work the piece back and forth rather than in the round.

Row 1 (WS): Sl 1 knitwise, k1, *p4, k4, repeat from *, ending k2.

Row 2: Sl 1 purlwise, p1, *C4B, p4, repeat from *, ending p2.

Row 3: Sl 1 knitwise, k1, *p4, k4, repeat from *, ending k2.

Row 4: Sl 1 purlwise, p1, k2, *C4F, C4B, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k2, p2.

Row 5: Sl1 knitwise, k1, p2, k2, *p4, k4, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k2, p2, k2.

Row 6: Sl 1 purlwise, p1, k2, p2, *C4B, p4, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2.

Row 7: Sl1 knitwise, k1, p2, k2, *p4, k4, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k2, p2, k2.

Row 8: Sl 1 purlwise, p1, k2, p2, *k4, p4, repeat from * to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2.

Row 9: Sl1 knitwise, k1, p2, k2, *p4, k4, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k2, p2, k2.

Row 10: Sl 1 purlwise, p1, k2, *C4B, C4F, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k2, p2.

Row 11: Sl 1 knitwise, k1, *p4, k4, repeat from *, ending k2.

Row 12: Sl 1 purlwise, p1, *C4B, p4, repeat from *, ending p2.

Row 13: Sl 1 knitwise, k1, *p4, k4, repeat from *, ending k2.

Row 14: Sl 1 purlwise, p1, *k4, p4, repeat from *, ending p2.

Row 15: Sl 1 knitwise, k1, *p4, k4, repeat from *, ending k2.

Row 16: Sl 1 purlwise, p1, *C4B, p4, repeat from *, ending p2.

Row 17: Sl 1 knitwise, k1, *p4, k4, repeat from *, ending k2.

Row 18: Sl 1 purlwise, p1, *k1, p2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, p1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, ending p2.

Row 19: Sl 1 knitwise, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, ending p2.

Row 20: Sl 1 purlwise, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, ending k2.

Row 21: Sl 1 knitwise, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, ending p2.

BO in pattern.

Note: Here’s an easy way to bind off this piece neatly:  Go back to the beginning of the row you just completed. Sl 2 sts purlwise onto your left-hand needle. Pass the first over the second. Continue in the manner until all sts are bound off.

This method makes a nice, even finished edge.

Bind off edge

Weave in ends.

Put the sweater on your mug and decide where the button ought to go (somewhere  between the ends of the handle). Sew it on.

For the loop: CO 3 sts and knit an i-cord of about 3” (8 cm).

Bind off and sew the ends to the opposite side from the button.

Mug Sweater button

Note: If you want to make this sweater for a taller mug, you can extend the pattern with rows 12-15. Work these 4 rows after Row 1 and Row 15 of the pattern, repeating as many times as you want.

Tangled Cables

Mama’s already tested her mug sweater at least once. This spring is still chilly enough to make us put the kettle on throughout the day.

Today, however, was lovely. Happy Mother’s Day!

Cup of Tea

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21 thoughts on “The Mother of All Mug Sweaters

  1. Pingback: By Popular Demand | Spicy Life

    • No, you do not have to put the piece on two needles to work back and forth. This section will be curved, even though it is worked “flat” rather than in the round, so it’s better to use three or four needles. And it gets easier with each round! Does that answer your question?

      • Thanks, that’s great! Lovely pattern by the way- saw this AGES ago but lost the link…. trawled Ravelry looking for one and nothing else measured up! Glad I found it again, it’s so cute!

      • Ahhh sorry Jenni, stuck again… it’s this inside out thing. So i tried just pushing it through the needles so the purl bit is on the outside… but then the next instruction after the Sl1K1 is P4K4*… only the P4 is now on the pretty knitted bit (like, the stockinette-looking bit) and ruins it… what am i doing wrong?

      • Hmm. First, check that you’re working 54 sts. If this is the case, your previous row should end k4, p2. Then, in Row 1, the p4 will line up with k4 from the previous row, thus continuing a stockinette pattern across those sts.

  2. Right… I’ve re-started it all and got up to the same point (I think my Pfb’s were a bit dodgy) and now I’ve got 72 sts… 24, 22 and 26 (because of the sl2 to left)…is that not right? Oh dear, not doing very well with this one! =/

    • Yes, that’s right! Sorry for adding to your confusion – after round 1 for the sides, you should have 72 sts (I’m adding a note to the pattern there for better clarity).

  3. Hello Jenni,
    I have a question. If you want to make it higher, from wich row do you need to restart the pattern?I have used a thiner yarn and at row 16 it’s just 2 inches long?
    Thank you.
    Amelia

  4. Love the design on this pretty sweater cozy. I’ve learned new stitches doing this project, yea a new challenge. haha. I’m a little confused on the part where you knit inside out, back and forth. I’m a beginner knitter and know the basics, I’ve relied on YouTube on how to knit different stitches.
    Are you planning to make a YouTube video doing this project? That would be so helpful to see if I’m doing this right.
    Thanks bunches!
    Donia

    • Hi Donia! I’m glad you’re enjoying the project – thanks for telling me! If I make another mug sweater, I’ll definitely consider making a video to show the process. Meanwhile, I imagine you are familiar with knitting back and forth, since that’s just business as usual. Instead of continuing to work in the round, you work the top part of the project flat, in order to leave a gap for the mug handle. When you begin this section, working “flat” (the stitches are still connected to the curved base) is best accomplished by turning the project inside out to work the wrong side. I couldn’t find a video that shows this clearly, but this one might help you see the same principle: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZqt19tpfDs

      • Thanks for your help & the video, I get it more now. :-)

        Love all your blogs. You have a lot of yummy recipes I can’t wait to try.
        Donia

  5. Love the patterns ( all of them) but I wish you could include print friendly versions. I work from my phone and they are tough to read on the small screen and printing this page means printing all the comments as well :(

    • Hi Lori, thanks for letting me know! I can add print-friendly versions, no problem. Can you give me an example of a pattern site that reads well on your phone? I would gladly make changes for easier on-screen reading too.

      On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Spicy Life wrote:

      >

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