Spring is flirting with us.
Leading us on with a taste of higher temperatures. Teasing us with warm breezes and sunshine, then taking them away again.
It’s still my favorite season.
I’m ready to put away my coats and scarves – mentally, I already have.
But I won’t be putting away the tea-drinking habit I’ve settled into!
I’m afraid that means I will probably have a burnt tongue year-round now.
But I do have a way to drink my tea without melting the flesh off my fingers!
(And one that doesn’t involve a straw)
If you’ve got an ugly mug, this mug sweater is the cure. And if you’ve got a lovely mug, this pattern will take it up a notch!
I designed it to fit a standard-size mug, or one that’s slightly taller. The lacy design was inspired by this pattern.
Spring Wind Mug Sweater
Size: Fits a mug 3 ¼” (8.5 cm) in diameter, 3 ¾-4 ½” (10-12 cm) tall
Materials: Worsted-weight yarn, size 5 (3.75 mm) double-pointed needles, button
Gauge: This project isn’t large enough to make it worth your while to make a swatch. Just measure it against your mug as you go. (If you switch it to a circular needle, you can try it on.)
CO 1 st, using a slip knot.
RS: K1, p1, k1 in same st. (3 sts)
Pass stitches to the other end of the needle and knit on the RS again (as for an i-cord): Kfb each stitch. (6 sts)
Repeat last row. (12 sts)
Divide the 12 sts onto 3 dp needles.
Round 1: *Kfb, k1, repeat from*
Round 2 (and all even rounds): Knit.
Round 3: Repeat round 1
Round 5: *Kfb, k2, repeat from* (36 sts)
Round 7: *Kfb, k3, repeat from* (45 sts)
Round 9: *Kfb, k4, repeat from* (54 sts)
Round 10: Knit.
You should now have a flat circle the same size as the base of your mug. If you need to make it a bit larger, knit additional increase rounds according to the same pattern.
Purl one round.
Round 1: *K3, k2tog, yo, k1, repeat from *
Round 2: *K2, k2tog, yo, k2, repeat from*
Round 3: *K1, K2tog, yo, k3, repeat from *
Round 4: K1, and pass that stitch to the needle on the right so it becomes the end of the round. BO 4 sts, sl1, *K2tog, yo, k4, repeat from *, k1.
Now turn the work inside out and knit on the WS. From now on, work the piece back and forth rather than in the round.
Row 1 (WS): Sl 1 purlwise, *p3, p2tog tbl, yo, p1, repeat from *, p1.
Row 2: Sl 1 knitwise, *k2, yo, k2tog tbl, k2, repeat from *, k1.
Row 3: Sl 1 purlwise, *p1, p2tog tbl, yo, p3, repeat from *, p1.
Row 4: Sl 1 knitwise, *k4, yo, ssk, repeat from *, k1.
Row 5: Sl 1 purlwise, *p1, yo, p2tog, p3, repeat from *, p1.
Row 6: Sl 1 knitwise, *k2, k2tog, yo, k2, repeat from *, k1.
Row 7: Sl 1 purlwise, *p3, yo, p2tog, p1, repeat from *, p1.
Row 8: Sl 1 knitwise, *k2tog, yo, k4, repeat from *, k1.
Repeat rows 1-8.
Repeat rows 1-4 once more.
Now the piece should measure about three inches high, or about half an inch shorter than your desired height. (If you want your mug sweater taller, work through the pattern again, ending with row 4.)
Next row (WS): Sl 1 purlwise, *p1, k1, repeat from * (in the middle of the row, work one knit and purl in the same stitch so you’ll have an odd number), p2.
RS row: Sl 1 knitwise, *k1, p1, repeat from *, k2.
Work WS row once more.
BO in pattern. (Here’s an easy way to bind off this piece neatly: Work RS row again. Then, with the RS facing you, go back to the beginning of the row. Sl 2 sts purlwise onto your left-hand needle. Pass the first over the second. Continue in the manner until all sts are bound off.)
Weave in ends.
Put the sweater on your mug and decide where the button ought to go (somewhere between the ends of the handle). Sew it on.
For the loop: CO 3 sts and knit an i-cord of about 3” (8 cm).
Bind off and sew the ends to the opposite side from the button.
I made these mug sweaters before Christmas. I adapted the first one from this pattern…
…and I made the second in a honeycomb cable design.
Besides protecting your fingers from hot ceramic, mug sweaters are a fabulous way to experiment with different patterns.
I’ll be back soon with another design – watch for the new pattern!